Graham Elliot’s distinctive white glasses frames, a long-running signature search for the MasterChef host, aren’t the very first thing that catches my eye after I stroll into Le Margot, his new restaurant in Fort Price, though they’re eye-catching. That honor goes to a stunning wall alongside the eating room lined in what seems to be horse hair in ever-deepening shades of pink and maroon.
The area, transformed from its earlier life as a Nook Bakery, is swimming in shades of pink and black and decor that’s each French kitsch (the etched glass plates and coupes) and ultra-modern (the moody images on both finish of the eating room). It’s a French bistro however, true to Elliot’s model, slightly quirky.
Today, Elliot finds himself in Fort Price with a plan to transform and open a number of eating places in his partnership with chef Felipe Armenta and Far Out Hospitality. Elliot had moved again to Texas after a stint right here some 25 years in the past when he labored below Dean Fearing at Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek and Stephen Pyles at Star Canyon. Between at times, he opened a number of eating places in Chicago, together with an eponymous one awarded two Michelin Stars, earned three James Beard Award nominations, and most lately served as government chef at Pounders in Laie, Hawaii. In his new position, he has been creating new menus at Far Out’s present eating places — together with Pacific Desk, Maria’s, Press Cafe, and Tavern — and serving to to create new eating places, together with Le Margot and Cowboy Prime, a steakhouse in Midland that may open a second location on the Stockyards within the fall.
“I’ve been dwelling right here now for over eight months, and I reside in downtown Fort Price,” Elliot tells Eater Dallas. “So I’m right here on daily basis. Folks [may] suppose, ‘Oh, he’s on TV most likely lives in L.A. He’s right here each six months.’ However I’m actually on expo or within the kitchen cooking in any respect these eating places.” For the previous few months, he’s primarily been at Le Margot, which opened its doorways in June.
Le Margot is called after Armenta’s daughter, and Elliot envisions it as “advantageous eating redefined.” The menu is extra impressed by traditional, rustic French dishes than fashionable Parisian delicacies, however with a twist. Coq au vin and bouillabaisse are relegated to the specials, whereas tarte flambees (a collection of flatbreads) prime the menu. The entrees embrace a Royale with Cheese that finds a cheeseburger doused in melted brie and a conventional steak frites served with “Margot butter,” which is an element butter and smoked tallow blended with parsley, cracked pepper, and lemon zest. The meat, and all of the components of the cow, utilized in Le Margot come from Armenta’s ranch.
Towers of each charcuterie and shellfish, in addition to caviar service, supply that bougie zing, if diners are searching for it. And there’s whimsy within the cocktail checklist, with the Oh La La (a tackle the Cosmo involving cotton sweet), the Napoleon Complicated (gin, St. Germain, cucumber, and lime), and the Boulevard of Damaged Desires (bourbon, vermouth, and Campari) — the latter is the title of a Inexperienced Day track and nods to Elliot’s love of music.
“Every little thing on the menu is three elements,” Elliot says. “We don’t want so as to add a potato right here and a few sort of veggie right here and no matter. It’s simply tremendous easy. And I feel it’s vital for us to get that throughout to the visitors as a result of…folks could be intimidated and suppose it’s fancier, it’s costly, it’s Frenchie. But it surely’s loud and enjoyable. I wish to be right here twice per week consuming oysters and consuming on the bar.”
Elliot introduced in Wyl Lima as culinary supervisor. Lima was beforehand at Sister on Decrease Greenville and Temporis in Chicago. When Elliot is out of city, as he was earlier this yr to movie the present season of The Nice American Recipe on PBS (which Tiffany Derry of Roots Southern Desk additionally seems on), Lima handles the kitchen.
Coming later this yr shall be F1, a barbecue spot the place visitors eat smoked meats off advantageous china moderately than the usual metallic tray, and what could possibly be described as fancier however not fussy sides — think about an eight-bean salad with sprouting legumes, herbs, and lemons as an alternative of pinto beans. Additionally within the works is an Italian place in Fort Price that Elliot and Armada are plotting to open in 2024.
Le Margot is at 3150 S Hulen St. in Fort Price. Reservations can be found on Tock.